APHIDS 101
Aphids feed on soft stems, branches, buds and fruit, preferring tender new growth over tougher established foliage. They pierce the stems and suck the nutrient-rich sap from the plant, leaving behind curled or yellowed leaves, deformed flowers, or damaged fruit. Most aphids feed on a wide variety of plants, although some species are specific to certain types of plants. Aphids don’t like to dine alone, and can usually be found feeding in large groups. Depending on the level of infestation, they can cause serious injury to individual plants or even entire crops. Aphids produce multiple generations in one year and infestations can quickly get out of hand. Treating them early, before they have a chance to reproduce, can make a huge difference in gaining aphid control. Aphids frequently carry viruses and can spread them from one plant to another, often proving fatal to crops like citrus, potatoes and grains. Aphids secrete a sticky substance called honeydew that attracts ants, so following a trail of ants into a plant can often lead to a discovery of an aphid infestation. Ants are known to protect aphids from natural predators and even herd them into tight colonies so they can harvest the honeydew easier. Honeydew also creates a favorable environment for sooty mold to grow and spread. Most species of aphids overwinter as eggs and hatch in the spring usually April or May in our area. So now is the time to start thinking about controlling them. How to Get Rid of Aphids
There are many ways to control aphids without using dangerous chemicals in your garden. Aphids have several natural enemies, including other insects, insect larvae, and birds; and they move rather slowly, making them easy to remove by hand or target with sprays. Aphids multiply quickly, so it may take a combination of methods as well as repeated efforts to completely control them. Be persistent and patient; it may take a little time to see results. Here are a few methods for natural aphid control: GET RID OF APHIDS BY HAND Water or Spray aphids off of plants with a strong stream of water from a garden hose. This method is most effective early on in the season before an infestation has fully taken hold. It may not be a good choice for younger or more delicate plants, but it works well on plants where you can use higher water pressure. Remove by hand: Put on some garden gloves and knock them off of stems, leaves, flower buds, or wherever you see them, and into a bucket of soapy water to kill them. You can also cut or prune off the affected areas and drop them into the bucket. CONTROL APHIDS WITH NATURAL AND ORGANIC SPRAYS Soap and water: Make a homemade aphid spray by mixing a few tablespoons of a pure liquid soap (such as castile) in a small bucket of water. (Avoid using detergents or products with degreasers or moisturizers.) Apply with a spray bottle directly on aphids and the affected parts of the plant, making sure to soak the undersides of leaves where eggs and larvae like to hide. The soap dissolves the protective outer layer of aphids and other soft-bodied insects, eventually killing them. It doesn’t harm birds or hard-bodied beneficial insects like lacewings, ladybugs or pollinating bees. You can also purchase ready-to-use insecticidal soaps online or at a local nursery. Neem oil: The organic compounds in neem oil act as a repellent for aphids and other insects, including mealy bugs, cabbage worms, beetles, leafminers, ants and various types of caterpillars. However, it may repel beneficial insects, so use caution when and where they are present. Follow package instructions for diluting the oil in water or use a ready-to-use. Spray the affected areas. Neem oil is also good for controlling different types of fungus. Essential oils: Create your own spray mixture with essential oils. Use 4 to 5 drops of each: peppermint, clove, rosemary and thyme, and mix with water in a small spray bottle. Spray on affected plants to target adult aphids, as well as aphid larvae and eggs. EMPLOY NATURAL PREDATORS Lady beetles: Adult lady beetles (ladybugs) don't eat nearly as many aphids as they do in their larval stage, which is why many people are disappointed with the lack of control they see after releasing purchased live ladybugs into their garden. There needs to be a large enough aphid population to keep the ladybugs fed long enough to mate and lay eggs — because it’s the larvae that eat the most aphids. Ladybug larvae don’t look at all like the adults we're so familiar with, so identification is important. Live lady bugs can be purchased online or at your local nursery. Tips for better results:
Green lacewings: As with ladybugs, green lacewing larvae do the work of controlling aphids. Green lacewing eggs can also be purchased online and sometimes at a local nursery. Birds: Provide houses for bug-eating birds, like wrens and chickadees, to live in and they’ll repay you by helping keep the insect population under control. Grow small trees and shrubs where they can take cover and build their own nests. GROW THE RIGHT PLANTS Use plants to your advantage by planting varieties that attract beneficial insects (aphid predators) or those that naturally repel aphids. You can also plant some aphid favorites as trap plants to lure aphids away from plants you are trying to protect. Also, keep your garden clean of dead plant material that may be harboring aphid eggs over winter.
ROOT APHIDS Root aphids. The signs root aphid damage are similar, with curled or yellowed leaves and a failure to thrive. Root aphids cause infected plants to be susceptible to root rot, mildew, and other diseases, but many of the above-ground treatments aren’t effective. Root aphids are also common on indoor-grown plants and herbs. Here are a few suggestions on dealing specifically with root aphids:
For more information on aphids in our area: extension.umd.edu/resource/aphids-trees-and-shrubs |
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